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NAT GREENE CALENDAR
MEETINGS & EVENTS
NAT GREENE CALENDAR
Tuesday August 10 – Monthly Meeting: “Annual Summer Picnic & Equipment
Swap”, Bur-Mil Park Shelter #7, 7:00 p.m.
Tuesday September 14 - Monthly Meeting: Alethea Calloway of the
Catawaba Riverkeeper Foundation, “Conservation & New Trout Regulations on the
Catawaba River”, Lewis Recreation Center, 7:00 p.m.
Sept. 17,18 &19 (Lynchburg, VA) Club Fishing Trip, James River Small
Mouth Bass (remember your VA license), James River Fishing/Primitive Camping.
Contact Lorraine at 288-9976 or
mailto:lbrothrock@mindspring.com
Tuesday October 12, Monthly Meeting: Jeff Wilkins of the Fly Line,
“Fall Saltwater Flyfishing Opportunities,” Lewis Recreation Center, 7:00 p.m.
Tuesday November 9, Monthly Meeting: Topic TBA, Lewis Recreation
Center, 7:00 p.m.
Tuesday December 14, Annual Holiday Party, Lewis Recreation Center,
7:00 p.m.
Saturday March 26, 2005, Annual Flyfishing Seminar and Spring Banquet
with Special Guest Speaker A.K. Best, Fly Tying Specialist, Author, World Famous
Fly Fisherman, 9:00 a.m. and 6:30 p.m, Cardinal Golf and Country Club, 5700
Cardinal Way, Greensboro NC
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What is the Federation of Fly Fishers All About?
“It occurs to me that a loose federation of fly fishing groups could be of
considerable value”. –letter from Lee Wulff to Bob Wethern of the Flyfisher Club
of Oregon, May 27, 1964.
The idea to create a national federation of fly fishing clubs by people, who
also were willing to take action, seems to have sprung up on both coasts in the
early 1960’s. In June 1965, the first conclave of the Federation of Fly Fishers
took place in Eugene, Oregon and was hosted by the McKenzie Flyfishers. It was
immediately a national organization with the inclusion not only of West coast
fly fishing clubs, but also the Theodore Gordon Fly Fishers from New York.
Twelve clubs had joined the Federation by the end of 1965, and by the second
Conclave held at Jackson Hole, WY in September 1966, the number of clubs had
risen to 29.
Lew Bell and Lee Wulff presented the first draft of the Constitution at the
1965 meeting and Wulff suggested the reel emblem of the Federation. Many other
nationally know fly fishers were present, including Ted Trueblood, Ed Zern, Pete
Hidy, and Polly Rosborough. Who wouldn’t want to be a part of an organization
that included people like those! A new creation, on that would represent the
interests of fly fisherman was underway, and as time passed the famous who
affiliate with the FFF seems to have included just about anybody who was anyone.
Today the FFF has grown to over 300 clubs, and the organization is moving
more and more toward being an organization comprised of individual members. Our
goal is to support fisheries conservation and education programs for all fish
and all waters. Anywhere fly fishers have an interest the FFF can and does play
a role.
Purposes
In the bylaws, the purposes of the Federation are listed as follows:
1. Cultivate and advance the art, science and sport of fly-fishing as the
most sporting and enjoyable method of angling and the way of fishing most
consistent with the preservation and use of game fish resources.
2. Be the voice for organized fly fishing
3. Promote conservation of recreational resources.
4. Facilitate and improve the knowledge of fly-fishing.
5. Elevate the standard of integrity, honor, and courtesy of anglers.
6. Cherish the spirit of fellowship among anglers everywhere.
7. Establish and maintain liaison with other organizations of anglers and
conservationists, and government agencies concerned with the sport of angling;
and
8. Keep its members informed of developments of interest to the membership.
Those purposes are a tall order. Our national magazine, The Fly Fisher, is
available only to our members and has long been considered the best of its kind.
The first issue of The FlyFisher, was edited by Arnold Gingrich and Jim Bashline
and appeared in 1968. It was the first national magazine directed exclusively to
fly fishermen. We don’t try to compete with the commercial fly fishing
magazines, but the Fly Fisher is published under contract with a major,
professional publisher, which makes not only the articles and columns, but also
the photography and visual effects generally of absolutely first quality.
The International Fly Fishing Center in Livingston, Montana is part museum,
part education center, and is operated by professional staff. The IFFC is a
creation of the Federation of Fly Fishers, and represents how seriously we
approach our mission of sharing the fly fishing experience and teaching others
conservation. The FFF has also been a sponsor of the Wild Trout Symposium since
its inception, and this symposium brings together leading fisheries scientists
and conservation activists from around the world to discuss both eh present and
the future. We offer grants for education and conservation projects, and are
generally the leader in helping interested people, whether they are old or
young, learn the skills and finer points of our beloved sport.
We are The Federation of Fly Fishers, and we are serious about our goals. If
those goals sound like goals you agree with, consider joining us. You will be a
welcome partner.
By Mike Fisher, FFF VP Communications
Reprinted from Mid-South Fly Fishers July 2004 Newsletter
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Replacing the Soles on your Wading Shoes
During the short life of any wading shoe, eventually it becomes necessary to
replace the felt sole of the shoe. To do this you generally glue a new sole on
top of the existing sole. Soles come in two varieties: plain felt or felt with
studs. If you're going to make the effort to replace/add new soles, you might as
well make sure they have studs. Unfortunately, the instructions that come with
most replacement sole packs do not give you enough detail in order to do the job
right. 'Doing the job right' means having the soles last through a few seasons
without them falling off. Having done it now twice (and failing the first time),
I followed these instructions after talking with a number of experts on the
subject.
What You'll Need:
Felt Sole Replacement Kit (e.g., Korkers or other brand)
1 to 2 tubes of extra contact cement (they never give you enough in the
kit)
Rubber Mallet or hammer
An extremely sharp and strong knife, or plenty of sharp razor blades
Optional - Jig saw or hack saw
Replacement Instructions
Important: follow these steps for one shoe at a time. If you already have
studs in your existing sole, you may need to remove them or remove the entire
sole before putting the new one on.
1. Clean your existing felt soles of any dirt/mud. This can usually be
accomplished by using a wire brush to scrape the soles clean.
2. Place the new sole on the ground or work surface, felt side down. Place
your wading shoe on the new sole so that your shoe is centered on the sole
(i.e., the larger new sole extends beyond your existing sole all around). New
soles are always larger than your existing soles, so its important to align the
sole on the shoe before applying the cement and cutting. If the new sole has
studs, make sure that the studs fit within the boundary of your existing sole.
Using a pen/pencil, trace the outline of your shoe on the new sole. This will be
used later to align the new sole on the shoe.
3. If your wading shoe has an arch or a defined heel, you have to measure and
cut the heel from the new sole. Pick up the new sole and draw a line across the
sole at the point where the heel starts on your existing sole. It's important to
make sure that the heel is cut to the right size and at the right location as
your existing heel. With an extremely strong/sharp knife or a saw, cut the sole
in two along the line you just drew. Note: felt soles are hard to cut, make it
as straight as possible.
4. Apply a thin layer of cement to the existing felt sole to seal it. Wait at
least 1 hour before moving to the next step. Note: you can apply the cement with
a glue/epoxy brush, or just goop it onto the shoe and spread it evenly with the
mouth of the cement tube (wipe off any excess cement around the mouth of the
tube after this).
5. Apply one coat of cement evenly to both the existing felt sole and the
non-felt side of the new sole. On the new sole, make sure that you apply the
cement evenly within the boundary of the outline that you traced in Step 2
(don't put any cement outside of the boundary of the outline). Wait at least 30
minutes.
6. Apply another coat of cement evenly to both the existing felt sole and the
non-felt side of the new sole. Wait about 20 minutes (until the cement is barely
tacky, not too sticky).
7. Now it's time to place the new sole onto the existing sole. If you have a
shoe with an arch or defined heel, then start with the heel. Starting at the
center of the shoe, align the new heel with the existing heel based on the
outline you trace previously. Important: make sure that the new sole is aligned
correctly because you only get one shot at this. Now firmly press the heel onto
the existing heel, starting at the center of the shoe and pressing towards the
end of the heel. Then firmly press the rest of the new sole onto the existing
sole, starting at the center of the shoe and pressing towards the tip of the
shoe.
8. Using a rubber mallet or hammer, tap the sole firmly starting at the
center of the sole and tapping around the edges of the sole. To get a flat/firm
surface to hammer against, you may need to place the shoe on the ground with the
felt side up, and bend the ankle of the shoe to the side. Continue to tap the
sole until the edges of the new sole are right up against the existing sole. The
goal is to remove any bubbles in the cement and to make sure that there is
little or no gap between the existing sole and the new sole. You may need to tap
it firmly, and you may have to continue to tap the sole for one or two days
after pressing the new sole onto the existing one to reduce the gap.
9. Let the contact cement harden for a minimum of 24 hours, then you can trim
off the excess edge of the new sole. To trim off the excess, you need an
extremely strong/sharp knife or razor blade. I ended up having to use an
electric jig saw to trim off most of the excess. After removing most of the
excess sole, use sharp razor blades to continue to trim off any excess and make
the edge of the new sole flush with the old sole. Note: you will need a number
of sharp razor blades because they go dull very quickly when cutting the felt
sole.
Note: if there is still a gap left between the existing sole and the new
sole, you can still tap the edge of the sole for one or two days after first
pressing the new sole onto the existing sole. You should also let the cement
harden for at least 24 hours before wading in a stream with the new soles.
by Paul Johnston, The Santiam Flycasters
Reprinted from the June 2004 issue of the FFF Clubwire
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2003-2004 NAT GREENE FLYFISHERS CLUB OFFICERS
Jack Patterson
674-9700
664-7776
jwpatterson@worldnet.att.net
Linke Combs
282-7040
632-7572
lccombs@earthlink.net
Neal Mitchell
643-5001
cell 706-1123
nealmitjr@msn.com
Greg Peters
656-7379
632-2366
greg.peters@syngenta.com
Al Spicer
855-1325
373-7087
alspicer@yahoo.com
Lorraine Rothrock
288-9976
272-3962
cell 707-3761
lbrothrock@mindspring.com
Phil Harris
889-0918
harrisp@precisionfabrics.com
Cindy Spicer
855-1325
703-5632
cell 406-6171
cspicer@BBandT.com
